When you’ve been the executive chef at some of the most acclaimed restaurants in town, following your own act can be tremendously difficult. No one knows that better than Shannon Yates, whose name is closely linked with such innovative, fine dining establishments as Bacchus, Bistro 41 and the Ritz-Carlton. So when he opened Cru in early 2004 in Fort Myers’ Bell Tower Shops, expectations were great. Yates has yet to disappoint.

From day one, Cru has been hugely successful, underscoring area diners’ seemingly insatiable demand for a superlative experience when eating out. Under Yates’ direction and with the help of an amazing kitchen and wait staff, Cru delivers outstanding food, atmosphere and service without fail. Even on their first visit, diners can expect professional white-glove treatment. Consequently, the restaurant’s 150 seats usually are occupied year round. Reservations are strongly recommended.

Although Cru’s chic ambience and contemporary decor are magnets for young professionals and hipsters, Cru appeals to patrons of all ages and backgrounds. There’s a lot to see from any of the restaurant’s many vantage points. It all depends on whether you prefer to be in the middle of the action or closer to the sidelines from a bird’s eye perspective.

There are several seating areas, including an outdoor patio with candle-lit tables. Inside, the main dining room’s low lights, crisp linens and mix of tables and upholstered booths provide a sophisticated contrast to the restaurant’s bright, open display kitchen and adjacent counter with additional seating. The spacious bar at the front of the restaurant is especially lively, and provides one of the area’s hottest spots for seeing and being seen. Referred to as “The Tasca” (Spanish for a place to eat and drink with friends), it offers a separate, Latin-inspired menu. However, the chefs routinely cook to order upon request.

There is also a chef’s table, available upon request to a handful of lucky diners each night. There, regular patrons often prefer to be surprised by the kitchen staff, and will leave the particulars (including wine selections) to the chef. In other cases, diners may specify foods according to dietary restrictions or preferences, as well as the size of their appetite at the time.

In keeping with its promise of “Lush Wines and Pure Food,” Cru’s menu and wine list include offerings not usually found at other area restaurants. For example, the selection of what Yates describes as “magnificent, passionate” wines typically come from smaller producers worldwide. Though limited in number, the selections include something for every price point and palate. While the list also features more than a dozen exotic, bottled beers from around the globe, domestic beers and a full liquor bar are also available. Excluding many of the wines, nearly everything in the bar is offered at half-price during Happy Hour, from 4:30 - 6:30 daily.

Cru also lives up to the “pure food” end of its claims. By working closely with superior vendors, it obtains the best and freshest fish, game and poultry each day, along with the healthiest produce on the market. Nearly all of its produce comes from The Chef’s Garden, a 250-acre organic farm in Huron, Ohio. The family-owned operation provides more than 600 varieties of specialty vegetables, herbs and micro-greens to restaurants around the world. Vegetables are hand-harvested on demand and arrive to the chef’s kitchen within 24 hours. Starting in October, Cru’s will use only organic vegetables.

While the menu changes every three or four months, the kitchen’s approach to preparation remains the same. Rather than smother menu items in seasonings or sauces, the chefs rely on the basics - a little salt and pepper - to let the taste of the food shine through. As a result, everything on the menu is bursting with flavor, not just those selections that cater to the adventurous palate.
Of course, the less conventional items are what make the Cru dining experience remarkable. In addition to Cru’s signature Spicy Crab Rolls (or Bonzi), best selling appetizers include the South African Lobster Party (shrimp, scallop, ceviche of fresh fish with a yuzu-cilantro dressing) and the Grand Cru. Ideal for parties of four or more, the Grand Cru features an assortment of beef tartar, along with ostrich & beef hand rolls, big-eye sashimi, tuna tartar, foie gras terrine and imported cheese. At $45, it’s the most expensive item on the entire menu (which is extremely affordable), but as a sampler, it’s peerless.

Other interesting combos include the Grilled Chilled Beef & Shrimp Hand Rolls (sliced filet mignon stuffed into hand rolls with organic sprouts and shrimp, finished off with extra virgin olive oil and truffle oil) and the Social PlatŽ. Bearing no resemblance to the more traditional liver paste, this unusual appetizer presents a variety of exciting flavors as paté, including fig compote, smoked duck, roasted wild mushrooms, olive tapenade, sliced meats and cheese.

For the main course, diners may choose from Grilled Meat (featuring entrees such as New Zealand Elk Chop, Buffalo, Marinated Pork Tenderloin, Beef Tenderloin and other cuts) and Poultry, Fish, Rice. This section contains a variety of fish and fowl, including Pan Roasted Breast of Duck, Spanish Chicken & Rice and Cru Paella (fresh clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, spicy Chorizo sausage, fish stock, vegetables and a pinch of crushed, red pepper). Side dishes include Skinny Fries and Roasted Finger Potatoes (with bleu cheese, smoked bacon, onions and scallions).

A complete menu is available online at www.crufoodandwine.com. Also, diners may make reservations by visiting www.opentable.com or by calling the restaurant. Better yet, go ahead and paste the address into your browser, and add the number to your speed dial. You’ll be going back sooner than later.

(Cru is located in the Bell Tower Shops at 13499 So. Cleveland Ave. in Fort Myers. Dinner is served from 5p.m. Ð 10p.m. Monday through Thursday, and until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The lounge is open daily from 3 p.m. until 1 a.m. Cru is closed Sunday. For more information or reservations: 239-466-FOOD/3663).