Like the rest of Southwest Florida, downtown Fort Myers was a far different place when Harold’s on Bay opened just a few years ago. Beau Rivage had yet to open and plans for downtown redevelopment were still being formulated. So when respected chef Harold Balink decided to launch a new restaurant in the space once occupied by Peter’s La Cuisine, he knew he had his work cut out for him.

However, with Stacy Saiff as managing partner, and Balink as executive chef, the building has sprung back to life. Now starting its fourth year in business, Harold’s on Bay has reestablished its Bay Street location as a premier downtown destination.

In addition to regular customers from Beau Rivage and other residential developments nearby, the restaurant also has benefited from the Florida Repertory Theater’s summer season, now in its second year. According to Saiff, Harold’s has also enjoyed consistent support from neighboring businesses, as well as from the building’s previous owner, Peter Schmidt.

In keeping with the reputation of its location, Harold’s offers outstanding cuisine and professional service. At the same time, it has forged a new and distinctive identity, thanks to an innovative menu and redesigned dining room.

The 55-seat room has been completely renovated to create an atmosphere that is far less formal than before. There’s also an upper-floor mezzanine providing an additional 30 seats for overflow crowds and private parties, as well as pharmaceutical presentations and corporate functions.

In place of the high-backed chairs and Art Deco furnishings, the main dining space provides a contemporary, cosmopolitan ambience well suited for black-tie functions and casual gatherings alike. Cozy and uncluttered, it features splashes of color, unique lighting and whimsical touches, such as the faux-painted sky two stories above.

One of the more significant changes is the 10-seat bar along one side of the dining room. During the week, it’s not unusual for regular patrons to come in after work and find a drink waiting for them on the bar. “It’s like an extension of their living room,” says Saiff. “We know them personally.” Often, they’ll stay for dinner, in some cases, just hours after coming in for lunch. Apparently, the food is addictive.

Except for some Asian influences, Harold’s bills its menu as “American Eclectic,” meaning that it covers all culinary bases at lunch and dinner - some beef, seafood, game and pasta, as well as soups and salads. It also boasts an extensive, world-class wine list that offers some selections by the glass.

While some upscale restaurants try to impress patrons with lengthy descriptions of every dish, Harold’s is refreshingly straightforward. Rather than use a plethora of seasonings and ingredients, Chef Balink enhances flavor by using only the freshest, premium products and a few simple seasonings.

For example, dinner entrees listed under Large Plates include: Black Pepper Grilled Colorado Lamb Chops (with smoked bacon, onion and
fig compote, and green beans); Venison Tenderloin (Gorgonzola Dauphenoise, lingonberries and natural juices); and Baked Dover Sole (served with crab and saffron cous cous and artichoke and tomato bouillon).

Harold’s has created some extraordinary and inspired sauces to accompany its entrees. The Pan-Rendered Hudson Valley Duck Breast, for instance, is served with port and duck reduction, while the sea bass features a passion fruit reduction and the beef tenderloin is paired with a mushroom Madeira sauce.

Innovations extend to the Small Plates, which lists a number of unusual appetizers and several salads. Some examples of things you won’t find anywhere else in Southwest Florida: Homemade Spinach and Artichoke Ravioli (with sautéed beef cheeks and truffle butter); Blue Crab and Banana Spring Roll; and Seafood Salpicon (shrimp, lobster, scallops, grouper and crab, sautéed and bound with Boursin cheese). There are also two nightly specials (appetizer and entree).

During the day, there are always several different lunch specials in addition to a mouth-watering selection of soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees on the lunch menu. Typically, specials include an entree, an omelette and a cup of soup served with half a sandwich.

In keeping with the current trend to prevent taste bud boredom, Harold’s offers a tasting menu, which features various courses designed and prepared by the chef according to individual preferences. It is priced at $15 per course and available only at night. The number of courses served and extent of instruction per request are limited only by a patron’s appetite and spirit of adventure.

Everything that Harold’s serves is made on site, including its fabulous desserts. Among them is a unique rendition of French Vanilla Crême Brulee, Roasted Banana Cream Pie on an Oreo Cookie Crust, Chocolate Volcano Cake and Key Lime Pie (featured on the “Today” show when Chef Balink was at the King’s Crown restaurant on Captiva).

People who live or work in proximity aren’t the only Southwest Floridians who have discovered Harold’s. Word has spread south, prompting a growing number of Neapolitans to become weekly regulars. “That’s saying something when you have people who have eaten all over the world say we serve the finest food they’ve ever had,” says Saiff.