When new owners take over an existing restaurant, a name change is usually the first order of business. But at the new Manatee Max in the Bell Tower Shops in Fort Myers, that’s one of the only things owner John Davidson and partner Rich Levine didn’t change (other than adding the words, “the new”). Instead, they decided to turn their attention to more important matters, namely the menu and wait staff.
“I know that providing good food and good service sounds like a simple formula, but they’re the keys to a successful restaurant,” says Davidson. “So few people can attain that.”
Davidson will have done so twice if the new Manatee Max remains as busy as it has been since reopening earlier this year. His other enterprise, The Lighthouse restaurant on Port Comfort Road, overlooking the Port Sanibel Marina in south Fort Myers, is a well-established hit. Now beginning its seventh year, The Lighthouse is billed as a casual seafood restaurant and steakhouse with a touch of elegance.
Similarly, the focus is on seafood at the new Manatee Max, which promotes itself as “A Florida Seafood Grill & Key West Raw Bar.” However, the atmosphere is decidedly more whimsical than elegant. Davidson kept most of the existing interior décor, which features bright and cheerful manatee murals on the walls and a saltwater aquarium filled with tropical fish. “We have the only waterfront seating in the Bell Tower,” laughs Davidson.
On a more serious note, Davidson says he chose the location partly because of the traffic generated by the surrounding retail shops and nearby movie theater. The other reason: “I couldn’t think of a good, fresh seafood spot anywhere around here.” Problem solved.
The new Manatee Max features a considerably pared-down menu served by an excellent staff in a relaxed environment. Pared-down does not mean limited, as the restaurant offers just about any imaginable seafood item. Other than the oysters, which come from Louisiana, the shrimp, clams and nearly all of the fresh fish come from local waters.
Talented Executive Chef Jeffrey M. Rizzo has created an array of appetizers and entrees that are interesting and imaginative - indeed, some of the presentations are a bit unusual - without being too exotic. The Whole Fried Snapper, for example, features a 3-pound, deep-fried Florida yellowtail snapper, served whole (head and all) over saffron rice pilaf with a tropical fruit salsa. Somehow, this method of preparation not only makes the fish fall off the bones, but taste unbelievably delicious, too.
Other, more ordinary items are equally extraordinary. The Lobster Bisque, for instance, is a creamy, dreamy concoction made daily from fresh Maine lobster and heavy cream, and sweetened with sherry. It is always on the menu by the cup or the bowl, along with the homemade New England Clam Chowder and Seafood Gumbo ($2.95 - $4.95). However, only the bisque is available by the quart (takeout only).
Additional starters may be found under “From Our Raw Bar,” which includes Oysters and Clams (served raw on the half shell or steamed), Smoked Fish Dip, Fried Calamari, Steamed Mussels and several different kinds of Shrimp (including Thai Shrimp, which is grilled, skewered and served with a sweet and spicy glaze). Interesting variations on a theme include the Quesadillas, available with lobster or lump blue crabmeat, and the Bacon Wrapped Bar-B-Q Shrimp. Prices start at $4.50.
At lunch, the restaurant offers a different daily lunch special, popular with local business people watching the clock. For $5.95, the Express Lunch is usually a sandwich, or a special pasta or chicken dish, served with vegetables and a choice of starch. Otherwise, diners order from one menu from 11 a.m. until closing.
All fish and many of the seafood dishes are available grilled, blackened, broiled, fried or Buffalo-style. There are at least 5 fresh local catches on the menu daily, ranging from Tilapia, Triple Tail, Grouper, Mahi Mahi and more, to fresh imports, such as North Atlantic Salmon and sushi-grade Ahi Tuna. Typically, entrees are served with a vegetable du jour, a choice of one side and garlic cheese toast. You can also add a dinner salad for $1.99 or enjoy one of a half-dozen full-sized salads as an entire meal.
One of the best-selling entrees is the Skillet to the Max, containing fresh clams, oysters, shrimp, potatoes, smoked sausage and corn, all steamed together in a spicy seafood broth. Many of the same seafood delights can be found in the Seafood De Mer, which offers the addition of calamari and substitutes mussels for oysters. It is served with your choice of Marinara, Fra Diavlo or a light white wine clam sauce. Platter to the Max is another seafood extravaganza featuring fresh shrimp, mussels and grouper baked in parchment with a seafood broth.
Aware that not everyone likes seafood, Davidson and Levine have made sure the menu includes numerous chicken, beef and pasta dishes, as well as burgers and other sandwiches. Prices start at $6.95. There is also an affordably-priced children’s menu containing six kiddy favorites (including fresh fish fingers, chicken tenders, cheese quesadillas) for $3.95 each. Kids will also enjoy the manatee coloring and activity books, courtesy of the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission. The restaurant supplies the crayons.
Desserts such as the Soon-to-be-Famous Key Lime Pie, the Brownie to the Max and Cheesecake are homemade (and worth every calorie). There is also a full liquor bar, wine and beer, and “bottomless” soft drinks.
Additions to the new Manatee Max include live music Tuesday through Saturday in the lounge (starting at around 9 p.m.) and a lively happy hour. Each day from 3-6 p.m., patrons may enjoy 2-for-1 drinks as well as 50-cent oysters and clams (raw or steamed), shrimp and wings.
The new Manatee Max offers indoor and outdoor patio seating for 180, and provides off-site catering for receptions, social gatherings and corporate events. Look for their special seafood buffets on Mother’s Day and other holidays.
(Manatee Max is under the bell at the Bell Tower Shops, 13499 South Cleveland Avenue in Fort Myers. Open 7 days from 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., except for Sundays when it closes at 9 p.m. Phone: 239-482-6299).