At first glance, one might not notice that there’s been a change in the roster of four-star restaurants at the Bell Tower Shops in Fort Myers. That’s why it behooves fine-food lovers to revisit one of the center’s prime spots, now occupied by Bacco Restaurant & Wine Bar.

Formerly home to Bacchus and Dragonfly Bistro, Bacco is enviably located in proximity to such heavy hitting restaurants as Bistro 41, Cru and Blue Pointe. Under the direction of veteran restaurateur and owner Gino Pizzi, restaurant row’s latest addition promises to complement and compete with style.

Pizzi, a native of Italy, is a major fan of Southwest Florida and a 15-year visitor to Naples. He recently relocated to Fort Myers from Indianapolis, where he launched a number of popular Italian restaurants over the years, including one he still owns. At Bacco, he hopes to achieve similar success.

According to Pizzi, a great restaurant offers more than just great food. “In the restaurant business, we entertain and food is an important part of what we do. But it’s not everything,” he says. “A restaurant is an experience, not a meal. I want my patrons to have a wonderful experience because that’s what I look for when I go out.”

Based on that philosophy, Pizzi made a number of changes at Bacco before opening the restaurant in November. Most noticeably, the interior has been beautifully renovated and is now much warmer and more romantic than before. Gone is the industrial look, including the exposed beams and high-tech lighting. In its place, Pizzi has created an environment that is intimate and timeless.

The kitchen has been enclosed and is now totally out of view, eliminating the noise and smoky odors that can be distracting in a relatively small space. And while the bar has been abbreviated to include just a handful of seats, it’s still a nice place to pause for a glass of wine or a quiet bite.

Bacco’s new and improved interior also features soft lighting, tasteful artwork and stunning, wood floors. The banquette seating is gone, opening up the space to allow for additional tables and chairs. White tablecloths, linen napkins and candlelight complete the elegant look inside, which seats 36.

Outdoor seating on the patio doubles the number of diners that Bacco can accommodate and in fact, many patrons seem to prefer sitting outside on mild nights. Even on chilly nights, the patio is a popular place, thanks to portable gas heaters. Professional service inside and out makes dining at Bacco a pleasure, regardless of where one sits. An outstanding menu further enhances the experience.

Despite the name and Pizzi’s background in the food business, Bacco is not an Italian restaurant. The menu features an obvious Italian flair, but is much more Mediterranean/Continental than pure Italian. To ensure a flawless presentation, Pizzi wisely retained Chef Marc Pinto and Sous Chef Chris Hunt, who are credited for creating many of Dragonfly Bistro’s most innovative dishes. Their talents shine at Bacco, through the restaurant’s succinct yet diverse menu.

Selections include familiar favorites designed to delight rather than intimidate. For example, appetizers include Lightly Breaded Crab Cakes, Grilled Marinated Calamari, Prince Edwards Island Mussels and Pan Seared Sea Scallops. While the Proscuitto-Wrapped Shrimp are unusually large, plump and juicy, the Seafood Brodetto (mussels, calamari and shrimp in a spicy tomato broth) is simply unusual Ñ and delicious.

To start the meal, there are several salads and at least two soups, including the chef’s daily selection. On a recent visit, the special soup was a Tuscan Chicken Vegetable, alone worthy of a return trip. Diners may also indulge in a complimentary bread course featuring a fresh-baked loaf still warm from the oven.

Entrees cover the spectrum, ranging from pan-seared Filet Mignon (served with a black peppercorn brandy cream sauce) and Pork Chop (stuffed with fresh spinach and shitake mushrooms with rosemary reduction) to a variety of chicken, veal and fish dishes. The Herb Crusted Lamb Rack is probably Bacco’s signature dish, as it garners rave reviews on a nightly basis. Unique but simply prepared, the rack of lamb is crusted with fresh herbs and pan-seared to temperature, and then served with a delicate balsamic honey sauce. It is fabulous.

Not surprisingly, the pasta portion of the menu best reflects Bacco’s Italian flair, featuring five distinctly different offerings. There are two linguine dishes with seafood (Linguine Mare Monti and Linguine del Golfo), as well as Fettuccine ala Vodka (a delicious blend of grilled chicken and spinach in a tomato vodka sauce). Penne ala Medici is a refreshing mix of artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, capers, garlic and olive oil; Penne Arrabiata contains olive oil, garlic, onions and black olives in a spicy light tomato sauce.

In addition to the regular menu, Bacco has a special menu that changes weekly. It includes a wine feature, along with special entrees, salads and appetizers.

In keeping with the name, Bacco serves some delicious wines from around the world, many of which are available by the glass. Although the emphasis is on Italian wines, South America, France, New Zealand and California are also well represented. Most selections are from boutique wineries, and are chosen for their superior taste and value. Various domestic and imported beers are available as well.

To finish the evening, Bacco offers several homemade desserts (including créme brulee) and coffee, espresso or cappuccino to accompany them.

 Currently, plans are in the works to tweak the restaurant’s menu selections according to customer inquiries. However, based on diners’ reactions thus far, Bacco is perfect just the way it is.