It’s a good sign when a restaurant opens to rave reviews and standing-room-only crowds. It’s an even better sign when that is still the case after two years in business.

Such is the story of Rumrunners, located adjacent to the Marina at Cape Harbour in Cape Coral. Since opening in late 2003, it has remained a rarity in the restaurant business. First, it is one of the few in Lee County with a scenic, waterfront location. Further, for being slightly off the beaten path, Rumrunners has had no problem warming the 300 seats in its four dining rooms, at lunch and dinner, seven days a week. What’s even more remarkable is that many of its patrons must cross a bridge and - gasp! - pay a toll to get there. Not bad for a place that few thought would succeed.

“Many people thought the Cape wasn’t ready for this,” recalls Jeff Gately, a partner in Rumrunners. “It wouldn’t have been without Will Stout (Cape Harbour’s developer) and his push to make Cape Coral a more desirable place to live. Otherwise, this place never would have survived.”

Fortunately, Gately and partners Todd Johnson, Ralph Centalonza and David Long had the experience to recognize the possibilities. The four had prior experience working together in the business, most recently at Bistro 41 in Fort Myers. Wisely, they seized a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to create this premier casual waterfront dining experience.

Despite the fact that Rumrunners is part of Cape Harbour, it features gate-free access and is open to the public. To eliminate any suggestion of a private, country club environment, the owners designed a bright, vibrant interior that welcomes patrons in business suits and boating attire alike. Because most seats offer a water view, the atmosphere is conducive to long lunches watching boats navigate the canal and nearby lock, or a sunset dinner overlooking the mangroves.

The owners have taken special pains to capitalize on the restaurant’s enviable setting without sacrificing patrons’ comfort. Keeping the warmer weather months in mind, they installed misters and fans to cool the outdoor dining areas. There are also generous overhangs and massive, canvas umbrellas to block the sun, and a spacious, covered outdoor deck where cool breezes blow in from the water, even during the summer. There’s even a cozy fireplace to ward off the occasional winter chill.

Although the atmosphere is casual, the service is not. Rumrunners has cultivated an excellent crew of professional waiters. Friendly and efficient, they easily recite the numerous daily specials, answer questions about various menu items and keep the beverages replenished without prompting. It’s no wonder that the restaurant is a popular site for charity fundraisers and small, private gatherings. In December, it reportedly hosted two to three holiday corporate parties each day.

However, consistency is what keeps Rumrunners busy year-round. The menu reflects the waterfront location, with an emphasis on fresh fish and seafood. In fact, daily seafood specials are designed to sell out, due to the kitchen’s “no frozen fish” policy. That philosophy is evident in its Tuna Tataki (seared sushi-grade Ahi tuna), Crunchy Grouper Sandwich (made with local grouper) and Ralph’s Killer Shrimp (sautéed jumbo Gulf shrimp simmered in Cajun BBQ sauce).

Other best-sellers include the restaurant’s incomparable Pan-Fried Southwestern Style Lump Crab Cakes (served with passion fruit beurre blanc, garnished with Thai sweet chili drizzle), Seafood Potpie (shrimp, scallops, crab and veggies served in a creamy lobster sauce and topped with flaky pastry) and Seafood Paella (shrimp, scallops, fish medallions, mussels, clams and sausage tossed with tomato and baked in yellow rice).

In addition to seafood, the restaurant serves delicious beef, ranging from its famous Cowboy Steak (a 16-ounce, bone-in rib eye) to its Steak Au Poivre and Black Angus Burger. There are also pasta, chicken, pork and specialty dishes, such as Todd’s Meatloaf (ground veal, beef, pork, diced ham, fresh herbs, carrot and onion; served with garlic mashed potatoes and gravy).

Most sandwiches are served at lunch only, although soups and salads are always available. Rumrunners serves the area’s best Spinach & Blue Cheese Salad, combining baby spinach topped with a dressing of warm pecan, caramelized Bermuda onion and smoked bacon, and garnished with tomato, croutons and Gorgonzola cheese. Count on the soup of the day to be innovative and delightful (available by the cup or bowl).

Prices are moderate, averaging around $7-$8 at lunch and less than $20 for most dinner entrees. There is also a children’s menu, as well as daily drink specials and a daily Happy Hour with half-priced cocktails, beer and wine from 4:30 - 6:30 p.m. Diners who want to take home more than the memory of a great meal can visit Rumrunner’s retail corner, which carries souvenir t-shirts, mugs and other merchandise.

Later this year, the owners will launch two new concepts in Cape Harbour’s waterfront retail center, soon to open at the marina across the street. The first to debut will be a 20-30 seat ice-cream and coffee shop, open morning, noon and night, and serving danish, desserts and coffee, plus light fare at lunch. The other restaurant will offer casual dining with 60-80 seats, and is slated to open in November. Both establishments will share a common area with outdoor seating overlooking the marina.